Akha Chronicles
Book 1: Maesai
Chapter 14: The
Flat Village

 

The Flat Village

The Flat village is a village that was relocated from several different beautiful mountain locations by the army.  The owner of the land thought he would get rich off a bunch of impoverished Akha, which did not happen.  He got very little.

The Flat village is a village that I had significant involvement with from the beginning of their relocation and through out  many hard times which they experienced.

The Flat village illustrates what the cost is to the lives of people when governments, army, forestry and other selfish interests take action to shorten the lives of other peoples than themselves.

 

The Flat Village

Working for food security, medical problems, problems of relocation, places they got relocated from, fish project, weaving project.  How they ended up here, when I found them. Babies. Nutrition. The upper mission. 

I finally figured out who the headman was.  I don’t think that he was appointed when they first moved down off the mountain. He had a distinctive look, not a particularly good look but distinctive.  He had a number of children and both of his older daughters had a thyroid problem.  The younger one who was sixteen got pregnant and that made it worse according to my doctor friend.  The baby didn’t live but a few months.  I hardly knew it was gone except by the absence.  I asked the girl and she said it just got sick and died.  She took it to Maechan but it died anyway.  Almost like this sort of thing was expected it seemed.  That was the second child that died in the village that I knew of.

Every family had differences.  The headman’s family took eating real seriously, no one said to much and hands flew in a flurry of moving rice, herbs being dipped in chili sauce and eating mustard greens.  I think the Akha nation was built on mustard greens.

On this night I dropped off a few of my new alphabet books in the village and the headman’s three older kids got a quick introduction.  Then accross the road to another family.  This was a particularly odd night as Booh Saw’s family was expecting a police raid.  No one in her family had ID cards.  They had been raided twice and expected it again tonight.  The hut was dark and the dog barked a lot.  I could see why they kept it.  I had to watch that it didn’t nip me but other than that it was harmless to me but I think an intruder might have another problem.

I found Booh Saw sewing parts for a jacket in another hut, her older brother and younger sister and mother and mother and law dispersed with the small children to other huts.  All in the life of being Akha one would suppose.

Actually migration for these kinds of people was quite common and it wasn’t their problem that the world had gone to the nation state idea.  But for some reason there had never been too many shooting battles for the Akha so they did not get the generous handouts of refugee camps and such that were offered to other groups, much with US cooperation.  The only thing they got from the US was rabid missionaries who were always blowing up their backside and into a village trying to impose a churh, like so much cold wind.  I had been working this area for years and there was a load of work to be done in the villages to help out, help that wasn’t getting done by the missionaries.  Their aid was always tied to religion, something that the US opposed in its regular trade agreements.  But what could you expect of a country that thought Cuba a threat and was home to people like Jesse Helms.

The village had dirt streets, a few flourescent street lights, a community meeting place with covered roof and breezy open sides.  Sometimes I gave alphabet lessons on the large chalkboard.  Fortunately I didn’t have to get past the locked door of a church to use it. 

They had two wells in the village.  I had told them that shortly I would case the well in the middle of the village and put in a pump, for which they were glad but as I waited a few days for the money they kept asking me what month I would do it, two or three away, like that.

This particular well was about six meters down and it needed to go to at least ten so that there would be plent of water in the hot season as well.  After the concrete rings were in it would be filled around the outside with gravel and once the top was on and the hand pump mounted it would be skirted with a concret slab and a place for a water trough and washing.  Not a lot to it, they would help with the work, but it would still probably run about ten thousand baht if not more.  At present it was not used, had filled with debri and was fenced by slats of bamboo.

There was one family in the village that had a choice big piece of land and they were not Akha.  I don’t know how it worked.  They grew a lot of plants in a large enclosure.  But something was not all that well, because they ran a little store at first and no one would buy so now its bamboo shutters were closed.

I repeatedly told the villagers to quit working with paraquat, a chemical supplied by Zeneca corporation out of London but related to another company in the US.  The Akha had no idea of its lethality and only laughed at the concept that this stuff could kill you.  After all, it was magic, the Thais sold it and liked to use it too.  I was used to seeing the Akha spray it all around them in the weeds and then spill it all over their hands and then take it back to the village and wash out their tanks right next to the other well that was only six feet below the surface, the one they got their drinking water out of.

The village grew a lot of corn around them, baby corn.  Some of it they owned themselves under some sort of share cropper agreement and other they worked for the Thai neighbors.  The women came home with red hands.  That was caused by handling the red dyed insecticide treated corn seeds as they planted them.  They soaked them in water from the night before to get them to sprout faster.  Once again the agent had no relationship to any hazard they knew of and was only laughable to mention it to them when they were barely getting by at all.

I wondered if this sort of thing had any relationship to the infant deaths in the village?

Booti’s family was all married except her.  She was the youngest.  Her mother was in her seventies and this was the last of better than ten kids.  Her grandkids were all sort of loud and the boy especially obnoxious.  But a nice family over all, very appreciative of visits and her Booti’s mother was a real patriarch, great to sit and listen to.

This night the small woman from next door was in the hut.  Her daughter wanted to get an education but was in Bangkok at 15 getting a different kind of one instead.  And her daughter’s friend ended up at the mission.  Taking the kids out of the villages for different kinds of revamping.  No one seemed to be able to just leave them alone.

There had been a marriage lately.  I knew the groom by face but wasn’t sure who the bride was.

 

Flat village

I looked at the little girl.  Blood covered her all around the nose and mouth.   she cried on in  a weeping kind of way.  She had a bed sore on the back of her head and her lower pelvis, she was emaciated, she was maybe five and had been sick some time.  Flies crawled on her face.  I cleaned her face gently and put vicks on it to keep the flies away.  The blankets smelled bad.  No one appeared to care.  The dogs came and went.  I didn’t think she would make it.  She needed to be in a hospital or care until she got strong and better.

 

Flat village 2  (97)

The problems here are abcesses, eye infections, injury infections, lots of skin fungus.

There needs to be a good quick solution for fungus.

Then there are lots of bad teath.

Scalp infections.

Cut fingers.

Dry eyes.

Painful stomach like typhoid, milk of magnesia doesn’t do much.

 

But skin fungus is the largest problem.  Pharmacy solutions are very expensive, $6 per person.  What to do?

Booh Saw is 20 years old.

Pulled a widow’s teeth.

Husband went to do opium in Burma.

Three children, two died.  A baby boy left.

 

Sick at the Flat Village

While I had been in the flat village they found out I was sick and were very nice to me.

Then I went to Booti’s house and a man was laying on rice sacks on the floor next to the fire and Booti’s mother had a stick braced on his back in her left hand and with her right foot she would dip it into water and the stamp twice on a very hot metal hoe head she took out of the fire and then it would hiss like the devil and she would push her steaming heal into the guys lower back and hips.  She did this like a methodic dance. At seventy plus one tough old foot, one tough old lady.

Remember, three disks make their sound and then one drum, that is the cadence.

They have a cadence to their life.

 

Some of the problems In Village Stem From:

 

1. Increased consumption

2. Loss of land

3. Activity such as selling and using drugs

4. Decreasing nutrition

5. lack of medicine

6. prostitution, aids

7.  lack of sanittation

8.  Problems imposed by a new economy but lack of access to that new economy

 

Flat Village, Sick for three days.

Nov 97

The baby died. A girl of three months.

The men made the white death  clothes.

The man took the clothes off roughly like he was plucking a chicken or was very disturbed about the whole thing.  Then he redressed her in her burial whites of coarse clothe and wrapped her up and placed her on a wooden wrack on the ground to which they added all the things that were hers plus a full woman’s outfit of jacket and dress, ones that she would never wear.

I set back a little to watch it, but now it was just work to them I thought.  The mother and the younger sister of the father cried on the women’s side of the hut.  Much of the village gathered at the house.

They had told me that the girl was sick three days so I went to get medicine.  But when I got back the baby was already dead. In reality it had been twelve days and hadn’t eaten for five.  They meant it had been sick “like that” for three days.  They took her to the hospital at the last but she died there in their arms, the doctor not wanting to come and look at her first.

This infant death thing is a problem. Now that I knew better the symptoms of distress I would be on it more closely. 

A lot of the infants die in the first months.

Pneumonia was the worst killer it seemed.  That and the “runs”.

 

Flat Village

bladder stone boy

They thought he was peeing wrong for three years and always beat him with a switch till they saw the size of the bladder stone and then the grandmother wept

 

Flat Village

Booti

 

Woman at village with hole in leg

The doctor dug it all out and packed it, seemed to work but was a big hole you could have put your finger in. Packed it with gauze.

These were abcesses or boils, not sure if that was the same or not, but a certain kind of infection that went into the leg, arm, neck, sometimes face, and often arm pit.  Usually it got in a house and sort of stayed there, moving from person to person, particularly if they didn't make a point of cleaning up the place.  Often the Akha had no perception that the puss was really lethal.  They knew it, but behaved as if they didn't. Poverty.

 

Coal mine

flat village boohseh knows

he has fotos and a piece of the coal which I had tested.

 

Loh Pah Flees after Loh Guuh is killed

Loh Pah agreed to find pills for an old Thai man, never asked who he was or where he lived or why he wanted pills and of course it was a set up.  Loh Pah asked Loh Guuh to get involved and while Loh Guuh was doing lookout near the village a police officer walked up behind him and shot him in the back of the head.

Loh Pah then ran away to Loh Mah Cheh Akha where he hid for a number of months.

 

Ah Doh flat village opium, he gets busted for smoking, later he got on meth, a one way trip

 

Maw Lay

 

characteristics of the flat village

 

Bah Jeeh flat village

 

Boeuh Maw flat village

 

Ah Baw Booh Sehh

 

Booh saw

 

meeh nmm

 

Nyeeh pah, her son, two daughters, Ah Tsauh the small boy

 

Booh Uuh, and the lisaw man who is now dead, Maw Lay

 

ICU

 

Loh Pah, had welts on his back, got caught, went to prison

 

nightime intruder, police raids, booh Saw

 

Upper village, three suicides and a well

 

stories in the flat village

 

neighboring mission add ons, broad casts

 

long house

 

well repair and pump upper village

 

Booh Saw in flat village, the police come and arrest her mom, then let her go, she got very

 

fearful from that

 

two dead babies in the village

 

The Nyeeh Pah, Abaw Dteeh's wife, died, I bought him medicine

 

mission people visit many times going after the kids

 

emmanuel christian fellowship

 

amid poverty

 

booti's sotry of 40,000 baht owed over corn picking

 

booh saw's tooth flew out

 

party in the village and all the trash

 

building the well

 

Zenaca

 

manufacturers of gramoxone - paraquat

 

hernia boy

 

gall bladder stone boy, law joh

 

one girl went to bangkok, booh nmm

 

two girls caught at checkpoint, booh uuh and booh saw the younger

 

booh saw's brother could sing well. At first he did not like me

 

how I caught the thai boys

 

fooh man choo

 

other elders

 

paraquat

 

baby corn

 

thai visitors to huts at night

 

chickens around the hut, lice

 

booh saw's white dog

 

cost of lots

 

the boy runs and kicks the kid down from behind in a flying kick

 

The Crooked Hut

 

What a Day

Dear Friends:

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I apologize that this email became a little long but this is the fabric of what goes on here and on this one occasion I have taken the time to describe the events of mostly just one day.

Once again it has been a very busy week.  Some people can not remember what they ate for breakfast.

It is beginning to be that I can not remeber what I did and where I was the day before.

We are wrapping up the last few stories and cultural information for the

Children’s Book and I hope to begin typing all the new parts in by the end of next week.

Have been out to many villages in Thailand that I haven’t visited

before, sometimes taking the headman from one village to go see the next

village.

The rains have come so this usually involves getting pretty wet a time or two before we get back to the barn.

Some of the huts I visit have a diet of no more than rice and greens they gather. Never any meat and seldom an egg to split between many people.

Vegetarian or not, I find sometimes the best medicine for a sick child is to bring some meat to the hut.  It has an amazing affect.  And fruit.  We tend to take nutrition for granted.

The girl with the wound near to her eye is doing fine.  I made another trip back to check on her and will go again in a few days.  It is over two hundred miles round trip on a small motorbike on mountain roads.

Then in the villages it a host of things to do, never planned or on

schedule.  Babies with big infections, a child of six months loosing

weight with no explanation.  The child before died so the mother is

really worried.  Teeth to pull, rashes, cuts, slivers, eye and ear

infections, injuries that healed improperly, and the list goes on.  With

the heat, between rains, the infants take it the worst and the distances

to clinics are very far and often out of the question due to the roads.

Then impossible if the mother doesn’t have an identity card.  Or if you

send them, they tell you that the doctor gave them some non discript

pills and they have no idea what they are for.  Babies dying quickly is

quite common so it always makes me nervous when I have to walk away with

no help to offer.

The first aid assistance runs along side letting them know that books

are coming and many of the children and adults are eager to learn how to

write their own language.

Yesterday and the day before were really long days.

On June 1st in the evening one traditional Akha doctor who I often visit

told me that a man had just died near to the village, that they were

“Christian” and lived in a tiny hut by themselves.  I didn’t know that

anyone was even out there in that part of the fields.  The man before he

died called the village doctor but she told  me that she didn’t know what he was sick of but it was serious and many people thought aids and she was afraid to walk into what she didn’t know.

That may sound strange to westerners where we can always call 911, but

in a place where there is often no food, poor food at that, not the best

health all around and no good medical services people tend to be afraid just a little bit about what the are not expert at.

They gave me general directions to the hut but wouldn’t go because that was a “Christian” hut as well and they were from a traditional village and won’t have anything to do with “Christian” Akha.

As the night and day went on I was to find out why.

(Earlier that day two pastors from the “Christian” upper village had visited and I talked with them briefly.)

I got to the hut in the dark, the whole hut leaning sideways so that you

had to walk in leaning to one side.

A candle burned.  It was 10 pm and nothing was moving.  A thai man sat in on a chair against the wall of the hut to my right. The floor was of dirt. He spoke no Akha and I little Thai.

(Akha huts have a front “everybody’s” room and men sleep there. The back

room is for the women to sleep, more private.)

On the men’s side of the hut there was a mosquito net.

The man woke the children.  There was a little boy and a young girl

whose face had been scarred by a dog.  She pulled the net to one side

and sat up next to her brother.  She was stary eyed.  A foot away her

father lay dead wrapped in a blanket.  The mother was gone to bring

friends to help.

I stayed a while, there wasn’t much I could do and no where to move the body over.

I would have to come back in the  morning.

I would also give the widow time to muster what she could.

I didn’t get back till ten oclock in the morning, some twenty miles away

from Maesai.

I expected the hut to be surrounded by friends.  There was no one there.  I went inside.  The widow sat there, her husband’s father who had been injured in the head and was “slow”. Her oldest daughter, the young daughter and the boy.  I walked in.  Flies were already beginning to swarm.  No one said anything.  The “Christian” Akha weren’t coming either.

That morning which was yesterday, I had borrowed $40 to keep everyone at

my “school” fed and keep gas in the bike.  I have to make that long trip

to see the girl with the eye wound one more time so I felt sort of happy

to have a couple of dollars. I had stopped to buy more medicine on the way out so it was already beginning to dribble away.

The flies buzzed.

I asked them if they had a coffin coming? Stupid question.

These girls were going to have to become prostitutes just for the family

to eat now.

I told them to wait.  I got back on the motorbike and sped off in search

of a coffin maker.  Though I had seen many dead infants this was my first search for a coffin for an adult.  I went to the next large town.

They wanted $45.  I went back to the traditional village and asked a boy

there.  He knew where there was another place so we went back out to the

highway to that place.  $40.  But I had already gassed the bike, ate one

time and would need more gas before the day was over. I offered $30.  She agreed, loaded the coffin in an old truck and they drove it out to the village.  The Thais can be real kind this way.  No charge.

We wrapped the blanket tight and placed the husband in the coffin.  I gave the children one last look at their father and they began crying softly.  He had a strong face but looked to have been very ill, but not AIDS.  Maybe I would find out.  There were nails but no hammer so I pounded the lid tight down with the back of a heavy knife against the nail heads.

Nothing is simple.  Now I had four dollars.  They all looked at me.  Oh,

yeah, just where did I suggest burying him?  They had no place.  I was beginning to discover the nature of what the missionaries had done here.   There was great animosity between the religious and traditional Akha, the traditional Akha fearing that their traditions would be taken away, the “Christian” akha feeling they were enlightened and intelligent, much superior. But then their own, like this woman, got no help either.

Since the traditional village was afraid to help, I thought I would go

and try to find the two roving preachers.  As luck would have it they

were just leaving the huge mission compound and had closed the gate.  So

I caught up with them and told them that there was this dead “Jesus”

Akha and he had no place to die properly.  They said there was a

cemetary at the top of the mountain next to the village and that I could

bury him there, no problem they assured me. I thanked them and found the

trail and fought my motorbike up it steeply through the rocks and trees amazed that I could go at all.  High on the top there was a cleared meadow in the jungle, tall grass growing, and wonders, yes the man that commited suicide just last week.  Buried gently there.  A wooden cross with his name and age marked the only mound.

So I went back to the family and told them that I had found ground but that it was way too hot to dig and we would have to wait till 4 in the afternoon.

Then I set off to another village to check on some babies.  On the way I

met half a dozen Akha women marching down the road with baskets.  I

asked them where they were going and they said that they were off to the

Thai corn fields to harvest dry corn that the Thais didn’t want and gave

them.  For five gallons of clean corn kernals they get $2. So I was off

with them to help them pick corn.  After a couple hours we had our

baskets full, a blistering sun and back to the village.  I had a

motorbike and took one of them, the rest had to pack full baskets of

corn three kilometers back to the village where where they would have to

break loose the kernels.

By then my head was pounding, I didn’t have a hat, and I had more first

aid work to do in that village.  Before I knew it 5:00 had come so I set

off for the mission.  At the mission they had three trucks.  I asked the

top person there if they would come one kilometer and move the coffin to

the base of the mountain trail with one of their trucks.  Then there was

this big discussion, much ringing of hands and for some reason they just

couldn’t do it.  I was no less than furious.  I asked them why they had stripped this Akha of his culture and then didn’t have the decency to help bury one of their own?  Oh, he was from over there, maybe even Catholic, not Baptist.

So back down to the highway, and to the truck stand.  By this time it

was pushing 6pm.  There the man at the truck stand wanted $20 dollars to

move the coffin because he really didn’t want to put a dead man in his truck.  The Thais have special trucks for funerals so I knew I was pushing my luck.

Then the price went down to $10.  I had $4.  So off I went to the place where I had bought the coffin that morning.

Their truck was gone, but there was milling around in the way when Thais

are shaking and baking and something is happening so I had a seat and waited.  No hand wringing here.

The boys were busy cooking chicken over coals and talking about their

fighting chickens.  One had his chicken under his arm while he waited to

eat a less fortunate distant kin roasting on the coals. About 30 minutes

later with people and trucks coming and going a fancy red truck showed

up.  In Thailand if there is lots of coming and going something is

getting sorted out.  I like that.  Many westerners interpret it as

timewasting and milling about and not knowing how to get anything

organized straight away.  Looks are very deceptive.  So one man snatched

my motorbike, another offered me a front seat in the red truck and we

were off again.  Back into the woodland villages of the Thais nearby

there.  Fish ponds a beautiful place, lots of ckicken raising, lots of

piles of farm wood here and there and then more rickety buildings and

soon we were at some makeshift camp between trees and ponds at a rickety

table, some net overhead, a small garage and several men I had never

seen before. It was dark.  They were in the middle or end of dinner,

seemed to have no connection to any of this, and offered me a chair with

much ado and washed dishes in a bucket, set out a clean glass and poured

whiskey, put soup and meat in front of me and sat back and talked about

America, my broken Thai and their broken english.  And it all went on

and on, once again in the way we do things here in Thailand that makes

westerners impatient and the real story doesn’t even get talked about,

but I could smell that progress was afoot so I had a good eat.  Then the

man at the end, a big man, whose face I could not see in the dark, picked up his mobile phone and began making phone calls, the man on the left drank whiskey and talked about his new wife, the man on the right laughed and poured me more whiskey with more handfuls of ice.

The pickled garlic was crunchy and good.

Then the man at the end pulled out money, handed it to the man at the left and told him to round up three trucks, four or five guys, shovels, picks, lights and hurry up.  I never did see his face.

Soon not one but three trucks and motorbikes where streaming down the lanes between the rice fields back out to the mountain base village and out through the fields to one lone hut with a candle.

We loaded up the coffin, and then at the request of the Thais, in Thai fashion drove very slowly down the lane with all our lights going to this mans last resting place.  The Thais are so cool and gracious.

We reached the base of the mountain and the group had swollen to twenty people.  We laid hold of the coffin and carried it up the steep rocky trail  the kilometer to the top where the meadow was.  We had to stop often.

Once to the meadow, all the whiskey and ice got set up once again and

then with much laughter and merriment we took turns digging down through

the rich brown soil this great hole that you need to bury a friend.

His wife and daughters were there, the young boy stayed home with the older man.

We dug for hours.  There were huge rocks.  Then we lowered the white wooden coffing down in and everyone helped throw in handfulls of earth.

The young daughter had a hand hewn wooden cross that she placed at her father’s head and then we lit lots of candles all around the resulting mound.  One Catholic man took the widow and daughter by the hand and we all said a prayer, and headed down the mountain to the trucks.

When we got there we were met by angry Akha men from the mission some of

whom I had spoken to earlier, who could lend a hand.  Why had we buried him there?  Why late at night? Didn’t we know everyone was trying to sleep?  Their faces became ugly and pushy, the widow, a small woman in her thirties and the younger daughter were distraught and stood back.

The Thais finally told the villagers from the mission, hey, we were up there burying this poor woman’s husband, there was no more time, it had to be done and hey, lets just all have a good time and go home and sleep.

It was 1am.  The mission Akha refused.  They wanted to be ugly.  The Akha man who said the prayers tried to calm them and set it all aside.

Not to be done.  So finally in a style that all could understand the

Thais all pulled out their guns and asked the mission Akha if they would

be so kind to be happy, smile and that they hoped it was no great

inconvenience if we had buried this pennyless widow’s husband and this

girls father, did they mind?  The mission Akha all got really big smiles

and said everything was just fine and we all loaded up and left.

It was then that I was beginning to understand what the traditions of missions here was.

One day can be like that.

It rained hard when I drove back the twenty miles to maesai.

I was a little wet, a little tired but the widow was in peace for the moment.  I had no idea how they would get food now.

The husband worked spraying herbicide, Zenaca’s paraquat to be exact.

He had great pain in his lung before he died.

Never a dull moment.

It was 2am.

 

Matthew McDaniel

 

Email Journal

28 June,

Death of Meeh Sah

Sun, 28 Jun 1998 00:04:56 +0700

I tied you to my back and carried you from the village

I took you to two hospitals on my motorbike

I gave you my own blood and that of six other people

And still there was not enough time

So tonight I had to say goodbye to you dear friend

I laid you softly in the forgiving cool earth

Deep in the heart of the mountain jungle

Between young trees and vines as you were young

And none of it was good enough

To justify needing to say goodbye

Goodbye my friend Meeh Sah

I knew you only for a year

And it will never be long enough

 

It is with undescribable sorrow that I must tell you that this morning at 5:30 am the Akha girl Meeh Sah died at the hospital ICU in Chiangrai.  Malaria had completely destroyed her blood.  She was just 20.

Her child died with her.

I knew her a year.

I lost a friend who I didn’t get to teach how to read in her own langauge, I think that is how this all started, working on language.  Her husband lost a wife.

I had to bury her tonight in a very wet jungle.  It is almost midnight now.

She delivered a still born child just before dying and I had to dig two graves inbetween trees up on the mountain.  How small us humans are.

In the great forest it was like standing down at the feet of great elders and laying a friend at their feet, them looking down from the mist and the darkness as we say our goodbyes.

This was first about language, endangered language, but life is not kind to these people.

Matthew McDaniel

 

More on death of Meeh Sah

This last part of this journal this week gives the information leading up to Meeh Sah’s death which I did not put in the special note.

Starting on Thursday or Friday I don’t recall which:

......I just got my weekly newsletter sent off and finished talking to Jim Goodman who has a new book coming out about the Akha in the five countries here.  Then I went down to the Maesai hospital to check on the husband and wife who have malaria.

When I got there the husband looked better in the male ward.  My other friends daughter was there with her baby in the infant section as well.  Fever and lung congestion problem.

Then I went over to the women’s ward to check on the young Akha man’s wife. I have seen enough Akhas die to know she was standing in the door.

She lay in a bed on oxygen and a transfusion drip, boiling with fever in a room just as hot.  I asked the nursing station what was going on, how long she had been there like that and they could only tell me between giggling that her condition was getting steadily worse and that they thought she had cerebral malaria.  (pf) Though the wards were only paces away through a nurse’s alley no one from the one side had talked to the nurses from the other side about the spouse’s condition.

The general attitude was that all the charts were in order, she was sick, she was getting sicker, and it was lunch time.

I ordered an ambulance, got her papers together and following on my motorbike sent her south sixty miles to the private hospital in Chiangrai.  She was immediately checked into the cool air conditioned ICU.  She was in critical condition, the doctor tended to her immediately, ordered up blood and ran a quick series of lab tests.  Her malaria count was so high and her blood was almost completely taken over, about twenty percent of normal.  The people in Maesai hadn’t a clue at how close she was to dead.  Her chest heaved with every few breaths from the oxygen mask, two IV bottles now fed her, and a unit of blood was started along with something else that I didn’t get time to look at.  The doctor had another problem, not enough blood.  The only way he could save her he said was to replace enough of her blood to raise her healthy blood count from 5 to 15 in doctor’s terms.  As fate would have it my blood and her’s were identical so I went down to the lab, they ran tests and then I donated a unit of blood for her.  First time in my life.  After a few hours the doctor said that it looked like he could save her but she really hadn’t gotten past the critical time yet and that she could still suffer liver failure and brain damage if it continued much further.

Her little worn down mother sat out in the hall in her tribal dress, no more than rags really, and I went and got her a dinner and showed her where she could put her bed roll as is the custom here.

Her daughter, Meeh Sah was one of only nine people in the ICU and had much better care.  It was all I could do.  But now her husband had no one to watch him and feed him so I went back to the village, picked up the father of the husband and hauled him back north where I dropped him off at his son’s side in Maesai.  It was 11:30 pm.

I would have to be in two hospitals before noon and didn’t know when I was going to get more of the Child’s book typed into the computer.

On Saturday, as you know, I had to say goodbye to Meeh Sah.

I made a second trip up into the jungle to Meeh Sah’s grave on Sunday morning and cleared more brush and small trees and cleaned up more dirt and put more stones around and a post marker.

I will be making more trips to move some of the donated roses from near my cabin to her grave.

Monday morning:

Things have quieted down.

I returned Meeh Sah’s husband to the village this morning from Maesai

hospital.

 

13 Sept 98, Meeh Meeh Sterilization

001 Akha Journal Weekly Update 12 Aug.

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Well, this was a fast week since the last one, I have to ask people what day it is or find a newpaper.

I stopped by one village yesterday.

A woman I know was due to have a baby soon.

The neighbor came to the hut I was at and asked if I could come and look at the mother to be.  I asked where the husband was and she said he had gone to the other mountain to build on a hut for a friend.

So finishing eating I went to see my friend.  Her mother is a well known Nyeeh Pah. (spirit woman)

She was ten months along and said she had a