Akha Chronicles
Book 1: Maesai
Chapter Twelve: In The Villages

 

 

In the Villages

 

My experiences in specific villages and how they served to educate me about the lives and  hard times of the Akha people.  The services that I was able to deliver them were far below what I wished that I could do. That is my chief regret.

 

Year by Year

Year by year, I laid my life down behind the wheel, going from one village to another, visiting the people, learning their names and faces, finding out who they were, where they had lived before, how many years they had been in that village, wether the village was split already or not, the church, and what the grew.  How many huts were there, did they have clean water, were there any major problems, were they being threatened with relocation?

I asked many questions, writing much of it down, taking note of what they needed most and how I might be able to help.

My truck looked all the worse for wear, the fenders gone, the roof battered, the frame cracked repeatedly, sometimes bad tires, sometimes good ones, and of course first aid medicines and all the tools I needed to either fix the truck or fix the road.

 

In the Villages

This chapter is a look at the different Akha villages and the ones that take a representative place in my work.

Some are stable traditional villages, some are fragmented broken, targeted for conversion, under pressure, bandit villages, villages exposed to the worst sort of exchanges with Thais, others are villages that are remote and isolated, relieved of many of the problems.

These many villages make up the wide variety that I deal with and each category may be represented by many villages facing the same type of problems.

Overall it makes a picture of the Akha dilema in modern Thailand, facing a surprising number of elements that leave them little room for survival.  Somehow they have managed to cope, often at a great price, and I hope that I am able to contribute something to making those conditions better.

 

Village Conditions

Beisides the heat life in vilages was very difficult.

Much of the owrk that had been invested in old village sites was lost with forced village relocation.  One could not easily calculate the lost food security, fields, terraces, preparations such as this.  The cost was incalculable.

There is a need for great investment in the villages.  Water, roads, electric, terrace building, crops.

So much to do and so much money to find that it was discouraging.

 

The villages

Stories of the village, all the villages, their roads, trails, lives, talks, by the fire in every hut. 

 

The vilage squares, dances, ceremonies, wisdom and knowledge of the elders.

 

There is peace and strife both in the villages as life is either let go or fought over.

 

The struggle must go on, this is life.  To fight up, to grow,  to improve.  To fix, t repair to rebuild.

 

Always h ope that the best, that knowledge can be spared and passed on.

 

The Akha have great potential.

 

1.  Haen Taek Area Villages

 

Aih Yoh Akha

Village above San Chai, tired, heroin, aids, another gangster village.

 

San Sook

woman here dyes cloth.

Another gangster village, heroin and aids.

twins lived in this village, I think they had health problems, many people came to see them.

 

Mae Chan Luang Akha Jan 25, 2000

I went out behind Maesalong to Mae Chan Akha.  They were having a problem about the village being split, and I had fought this for a long time.  The road was bad in and I hoped before I got there that the problem had not gotten worse.  I also wanted to talk to them about forestry because I wanted to find out how much land forestry was taking and leaving them to farm.  Well, as it turned out, forestry was taking just about everything, leaving a few fields per family to farm, not enough for rice for the year by any means.

The old structure was taken down and they were still waiting for me to build the Sala but because of the moving of Huai Maak I had been delayed.

Then the headman told me that of the nine houses that had split off, now only six wanted to split off as the others had come back and taken up the ceremonies again.  This was good news to me and I hoped for the best.  Booh Dzmm’s father had still split off and Booh Dzmm’s mother had split off, I didn’t know about Booh Dzmm, what she was up to any more.

I asked about the road behind to Huai Maak but would have to run it in day light to get a good feel for it.

 

Dead, Nyeeh Pah Meeh Cheh

Nyeeh Pah Meeh Cheh relates how an incident was connected to Ah Baw Tooh from Mae Chan Luang Akha, Booh Dzmm's father.  Two tourists were robbed, killed and put in a shalow grave and gasoline poured on them to burn them up.  Somehow this was the fear causing event behind Ah Tooh's desire to become Christian she said.  I captured the discussion on video tape but have not retrieved the copy.

 

The Boeuh Maw Mae Chan Luang

I wasn't sure what the truth was but only knew I was getting closer to finding out.  The old man wover the strip of bamboo around the stick, caught anohter clasp of grass blades and tied them first one way then folding them over onto themselves around the stick, tied them antoher way, repeating the process till the stick was full making up one grass roof tile.

These he piled up, some one meter long, till he had hsi share to donate to the ew sala that was being built.  Water ran on the grass mid section so that it would bend around the stick without breaking.

He told me that the reason the family had become christian was that the grandfather had been murdered.  And now th e father's throat had becmoe sore, Ah Tooh, and he was afraid.  I was sure I was only getting part of the story but he could not explain it very well.  He seemed also uncomfortable, afraid, so I let it go. 

The straw hat blocked the sun, his hands working surely, sitting there in the heat, next to the fence near his house.  His wife occasionally said something, as she stacked broom grass nearby.  The ground was covered in green dust which was the seeds from the broom tassle.  They got the seeds out by rolling the tassle on the ground. 

The old man said his heart hurt him to see the village dividing so.  Breaking, a split gone in it.  Maybe 8 houses pulling out to become Christian.  The wife of Ah Tooh could not explain how she and her husband joined the split or guided it actually with the visiting pastor. 

The headman had more exact sentiment. He told me how that the woman had been pregnant and when she gave b irth to her first child she could not feed the baby girl becaue of a painful breast.  That he had helped feed and raise the couple and their first child.  His expression was not betrayal but just dismay at the current results.  The pastor was always coming mid day when the elders were gone to their fields. 

Now both the girls from that family had gone to be prostitutes in Bangkok for a stint. 

 

Ah Baw Meh

His one daughter was 15 and working at some unspecified job in Huai Krai.  His other younger daughter was working in Mae Salong and living at home in Mae Chan Luang village.

The family was poor.  Very poor.  All the details were not at first obvious.

The house was so poor that the most noticeable thing in it was a large sack of rock salt next to the partition.

Not only was the house dark it was in general bagginess.  Bags hanging everywhere, blankets, clothes, no fire ring, just a heap of stones, a broken mirror, no shelves, rice sacks against the walls.

The man's knee had gone bad.  An old woman came with a leaf and chopped leaves from the jungle and plastered them on the leg after spitting in  lime and making a line of white around his leg just above the knee. 

His face and eyes were big and open, like a face that didn't see the sun enough, yet hard working and human.

The hut was set steeply at the bottom of the village.  He had not enough land to farm, one kaw was all and forestry might take that too.

Very predictable, forestry, missionaries, army working in all these places.

 

Booh Dzmm, the three month story

 

Huuh Mah Akha

 

The Beginning of the Huuh Mah story

I did get to the new village site below Huuh Yoh Akha.  What an awful looking situation.  Shows what happens when the government tramples on peoples' rights.  Things sort of go bad, once the bad thinking starts.  The workers had taken a cat and cut huge terraces across the face of the mountain, very close together and very steep.  The Akha would not be so intrusive, taking out only small pieces here and there for a house at a time.  The Akha swore with good reason that this site was not safe and might well all fall down now during the rainy season because they had opened up so much of the mountain side at once.  Block houses one after the other, asbestos ceilings, from freeman to slave just like that.  And narry the land to till near the old site, impoverished the Akha would be if they moved to this site.

I went around the mountain and found the road into the village that was to be moved.  The road was long and beautiful through the trees, passed another villge and went on long into the mountains to a secluded valley.  There the Akha were rich with fruit trees  hillsides to farm, beautiful and abundant rice terraces, buffalo, cattle, horses, pigs, chickens and geese.  The place was high, beautiful, quiet and they had been there 78 years  best anyone alive could remember any way.

In the village not a single person wanted to leave.  The  headman had been Wa, as there were also Lisaw in the village, and the Wa headman and Lisaw had been involved with the Chinese and agreed to move the whole village accept that 37 houses of Akha, which made up the majority of the village didn't agree to do this. 

The government told them they were destroying the forest, hardly the case, and that if they wanted ID cards they  had to move. 

Forestry was the real culprit and I had a lot of work to do if I was going to stop this one.  The despair hung in the air, the roof pulled off one storage shed.  They had sold some pigs already and would have to pay for all the trucks themselves, and sell all that they had because there would be no room for any livestock where they were being made to move.

I told them to not tear down anything, that I would see what I could do, that they should give me two weeks time, if they really did not want to move.  And the rest is history.

 

A Real Shock

Huuh Mah Akha was facing eviction and I had to take two foreigners up to locate in the village as observers.

As I drove up the mountain a truck load of Akha waved for me to stop.

They were from Huuh Mah and told me that there had been a meeting there and that the forestry had a letter from me about the relocation and they were really angry.

The army said they would be forced to relocate anyway, even though forestry was backing off, and set the eviction for Jan 30, 2000.

The village was jubilant at this first small victory to keep their village in tact.

I drove on to the village and once we were all there we wrote up a statement to stay in the village.  Everyone signed it with their thumb that they did not want to relocate from the mountain.  The Akha said that they would refuse to move if they had any kind of back up.  I promised them that I would do the best I could.

I really felt for them.  They had this village, all the food they needed, totally self sufficient, and the army wanted to move them into poverty.

 

Story of Huuh Mah Akha

How I discovered Huuh Mah Akha

First contact with the construction site

First contact with the village

Army in the village at that time

Party

Email alert

People who came

First contact with the army

Meeting in Chiangrai

the vote

the village remains

the general

forestry

Sawat

Village Water problem

No power, no road, amen.

Food secure

 

Huuh Mah Akha

27 Dec 99

Action Alert

Forced Relocation of Huuh Mah Akha

Call for observers

ACTION ALERT!!!!!!

This is a very urgent message!!!!!

Please forward it to all the people who you know!!!!!!

FORCED MOVING OF AN AKHA VILLAGE

There is the immediate need for people to come to north Thailand and

locate

in a remote Akha mountain village to prevent its 400 inhabitants from

being

forced to move within the next 30 days, meaning by the end of January

2000.  Happy new Millenium, the new world order.  They will have to

abandon all their land and homes and have to pay to

move all

their possesions to a place where they will have no land to farm, no

place

for their animals to grow and breed, and live instead in concrete box

like

houses with asbestos ceilings and on a very steep  hillside opened up

in such

a way that mud sliding is imminent next rainy season.

This move is highly illegal on the part of the Thai government and forestry department and these people have no voice and don’t want to move down to the last person.

The village has been there for 78 years and there are people who have lived in the village since then.

This village move will only be stopped by a physical presence such that intervention is obviously on an international level.

If no one comes, there will be no blocking the move, and all the families will be shoved into poverty by the forestry department.  They have been told they will not be allowed to become citizens of Thailand if they do not agree to the move.

There are not many days left.

Please contact me if you want more info or can come, the village is waiting to hear if anyone will come and help them.  They have no rights, they know that, which leaves others to help them.

Matthew McDaniel

 

Jan 6, 2000

Call for help

THIS IS AN EXTREMELY URGENT CALL FOR HELP.

WE NEED JOURNALISTS  HERE AT THE VILLAGE

PLEASE FORWARD THIS TO ALL YOU KNOW.

Chiangrai, Northern Thailand

Forced Move of An Akha Village of 78 Years!

This is an urgent message and update about the forced move of an Akha village.

This move is to occur January, end January, this year, NOW in a few weeks.

Myself and one other visited the Akha village Huuh Mah Akha (thai pronunciation Huai Maak) in Ampour Mae Faluang District of Chiangrai Province.

The Thai personell at the village at the time said that the village was being forced to move because they were cutting down trees and poluting the water shed.

The move was being ordered by the Thai Forestry Department and an office dealing with Watershed.

As I have monitered this area often, I can see no proof of cutting of trees that could not be controlled, especially since non native pine is planted up all the way to the village on most sides of the valley, the valley, small valley walls being used for food and highly developed terraces, the terraces supplying most of the rice, making slash and burn not desired or much necessary.  This village happens to have one of the most environmentaly friendly situations in the area, as they have put great effort into these terraces and to use a minimum of the land.  Certainly forestry and water issues could be addressed without taking all that these people have invested in and owned all their life?

What is very badly needed now is that anyone who can alert a journalist to this situation should contact me, so that some arrangement could be made to come here and look at the situation.  We contacted the Ampour office for Mae Faluang district in Chiangrai Province and were told that the order came from Bangkok basically and that it was being backed up by the Thai army.  True to their word we found Thai army in the village today, with a truck and putting on a party before “the chicken’s head is cut”.  The Thai civilians in the village said that no body was being forced to move that all the Akha present wanted to move to the tiny houses being built by generous Taiwanese people down the mountain on a steep hillside of a “new village” that will have little to no land for them to farm or place their animals and all investment will be lost.  The Akha all present immediately sung out that this was not true at all and that none of them, not one, wanted to leave.  Can you imagine being 55, having lived somewhere all your life, and your mom, and being told, hey, sorry, you are a non person, want identity cards in Thailand, well then you have to move.  This is a move into poverty.  Probability that these families will see their daughters go into prostitution is high.  Having little resource once the land is gone.  The boys as well may very likely enter into the drug trade to make up the difference.  The cost in social welfare to the Akha and the Thai government will also be high.  In addition if trees and watershed are going to be the set method of determining if a village gets moved then the real goal must be that all the Akha villages get moved out of the mountains into the flat lands, into ghettos if you will, landless, labor class for the Thais, as is the case in many places already.

Many have asked what they can do.

Well, we are really in need of some reporters to come here and look at this, and any other people that can be observers.  I know that few can come, that it is not easily possible to drop all and go, but at the same time it is not going to be easy to stop the move without there actually being people here to look at the situation, report back to their own countries governments, and make a presence to the village.

The Akha involved, except for the land, have not much of anything, they are poor, are lucky to have temporary id cards issued the hill tribe and have no legal rights or recourse.

All the Thais I spoke to said “sorry, it must happen” not to them of course.

It is also recommended that you contact the nearest Thai embassy and equire politely what is going on.  Do not be confrontive, but persistent and polite.

The name of the village is Huai Maak.  It is a few kilometers on your map from a town called Haen Taek north of Doi Maesalong in Chiangrai Province, north Thailand.

It is not the issue strictly of legality, but of humanity.  If this is the cost of trees and water, we need it not.

Huai Maak village latitude and longitude coordinates are:

20degrees 13.31 N

099degrees 34.49 E

1053 meters

 

Matthew McDaniel

 

6 Jan 2000

PTT

Dear  Tansamrit-Hoho Songkiert at Petroleum Authority of Thailand (PTT):

A Ms. Josephine Birch sent me your email address and suggested that I

visit a village that she noted is being forced to move by the Thai

forestry department.

She said that you are opposed to moving people to plant trees.

I hope so, and that this order to move a village can be turned back.

As I am very busy I don’t always see things happening as they build up and in this case it is very unfortunate because this situation has progressed very far already.

A village in Ampour Mae Faluang, Chiangrai District named Huai Maak, is being told that they will have to move. This Month.  A “village” has been chopped out of a mountain for them.  Complete with highly carcinogenic asbestos roofing in these tiny row houses.

People in Forestry and Watershed are both involved in this decision.  Since I noted that there are a score of pine trees surrounding this village on all sides and your signs often accompanying such plantings I could not help but note the connection that she pointed out.

On visiting the village and talking to the villagers I indeed noted that they are being forced to move against their will.  The village has been there 78 years according to them, that is going back to about 1922 if I calculate correctly.  A little of a long time on immenent domain.

I also saw the site where they are being crouded into row houses on a hill, courtesy of some money from Taiwan I am told.

The Thai people at the village today told me that the village was poluting the water and that villagers were cutting trees.  Yet I saw no evidence of either.  After all, rather old growths of pine are planted up to one side of the valley ridge and much younger pine planted to the other side near the site where another village was forced to move three years ago.

Your strategy is obvious, take all the land that the Akha are living on and force them to live else where while you plant row after row of non native specie pine tree to the impoverishment of Thailand and its natural habitat. Tourists and the tourism industry will soon find out what you are doing to the Akha and Thailand will suffer a tourism loss as a result of the greedy exploitation of these poor people.

Today I inspected rai apon rai of pine planted, ten years old I would guess, not a damn thing growing underneath it, the soil dead.

Since anyone can tell you that pine has not near the bio mass that verdent jungle does, your progrom is increasing the likelyhood of drought in Thailand and the diminishing of multiple species of both plants and animals.  I don’t know if someone plans to harvest this in the future or not, sure looks convenient to that, a rich portfolio.

The other foolishness of this kind of planting is that in these mountains each spring huge layers of very humid air build up from flash rains, heat presses it all down, making the forest a furnace and then lightning strikes all afternoon, you can see it rolling in the clouds like great electric fingers.

Normal jungle is diverse and wet, many layers of wet, pine blows like an exploding flame and both animals and people die and forest is stripped bare in minutes.  I have seen it here near Doi Tung, and I know of people that have died from it, you can not outrun such an inferno shooting to the ridge.

If you will, could you please explain to me why PTT (Petroleum Authority of Thailand) is engaged in sponsoring all this non native specie pine and further how you can justify moving villages?

This village in question has been there for 78 years, much older than you or I, a history, a people, rice terraces, fruit trees and a fortune in human memory and knowledge of the environment.

Rather than work with them, as part of that environment, they are to be moved against their will, this month, January, 2000.  Welcome to the new millenium and the new world order? Is that it?

The concept that they are above watershed is foolish at best.  The water from this valley drains into the Haen Taek region only kilometers away, where every kind of polutant is dumped into the water, so how is one village endangering that?  Further, we have been after the idea for years that all these herbicides and pesticides should not be so freely sold in Thailand, and then they wouldn’t be in the water either, would they?

If this is used as an example, following these flimsy guidelines, you could justify the moving of every Akha village out of the border mountains of Thailand.  That appears to be the often stated and non stated goals here in the north, and then these people without a land, without a country, are blamed for everything, cutting new trees to farm at the new location, running drugs (as in to feed themselves), prostitution and what ever other social ill. After all they are aliens, are they not, damaging the environment? Non Thais.

The social welfare cost to the several hundred Akha in this village will not come cheaply to them or the Thai government once this move is forced.  I have worked with other villages that have been forced to move.  The death rate of the elderly and the infants is quite high, and since there is no land for these people where they are being forced to move compared to their current location, we can assume they are being moved into poverty.  Pigs, cattle, water buffalo and chickens not only do not do as well down at lower altitudes but there will also not be room for them.  So the protein supply and the fruit supply, the general nutrition of this village will plummet.  Rather than being self sufficient and independent, they will be forced into a cash economy completely, and will have to farm themselves out to rich others who will pay them the standard $2.50 US per day for whatever labor.

Have you ever spent a night in an Akha village?

Do you know who these people your trees move so easily are?

From every place in the Doi Maesalong and Doi Tung area I see where

these pine trees have been planted in mass it has turned rich jungle and

manageable areas into rows of single specie trees which impoverishes us

all.

If you don’t know that these things are going on, you should find out who is putting your PTT signs up all over the  mountains of Chiangrai Province.

I am always seeing in the Bangkok post how the Thais try so hard to help the “backward and impoverished Akha”.  Well, maybe, just maybe, they have at Huai Maak, some clue as to how this impoverishment and backwardness comes about.

 

Huai Maak village latitude and longitude coordinates are:

20degrees 13.31 N

099degrees 34.49 E

1053 meters

 

Sincerely,

Matthew McDaniel

 

Jan 7, 2000

Forced Move of Akha Village

For anyone interested in the Akha Hill Tribe of North Thailand and the preservation to their right to live, land and their own traditions:

Forced Move of An Akha Village of 78 Years!

This is an urgent message and update about the forced move of an Akha village.

This move is to occur January, end January, this year, NOW in a few weeks.

Myself and one other visited the Akha village Huuh Mah Akha (thai pronunciation Huai Maak) in Ampour Mae Faluang District of Chiangrai Province.

The Thai personell at the village at the time said that the village was being forced to move because they were cutting down trees and poluting the water shed.

The move was being ordered by the Thai Forestry Department and an office dealing with Watershed.

As I have monitered this area often, I can see no proof of cutting of trees that could not be controlled, especially since non native pine is planted up all the way to the village on most sides of the valley, the valley, small valley walls being used for food and highly developed terraces, the terraces supplying most of the rice, making slash and burn not desired or much necessary.  This village happens to have one of the most environmentaly friendly situations in the area, as they have put great effort into these terraces and to use a minimum of the land.  Certainly forestry and water issues could be addressed without taking all that these people have invested in and owned all their life?

What is very badly needed now is that anyone who can alert a journalist

to this situation should contact me, so that some arrangement could be

made to come here and look at the situation.  We contacted the Ampour

office for Mae Faluang district in Chiangrai Province and were told

that the order came from Bangkok basically and that it was being backed up

by the Thai army.  True to their word we found Thai army in the village

today, with a truck and putting on a party before “the chicken’s head

is cut”.  The Thai civilians in the village said that no body was being

forced to move that all the Akha present wanted to move to the tiny

houses being built by generous Taiwanese people down the mountain on a

steep hillside of a “new village” that will have little to no land for

them to farm or place their animals and all investment will be lost.

The Akha all present immediately sung out that this was not true at

all and that none of them, not one, wanted to leave.  Can you imagine

being

55, having lived somewhere all your life, and your mom, and being

told, hey, sorry, you are a non person, want identity cards in Thailand,

well then you have to move.  This is a move into poverty.  Probability that

these families will see their daughters go into prostitution is high.

Having little resource once the land is gone.  The boys as well may

very likely enter into the drug trade to make up the difference.  The cost

in social welfare to the Akha and the Thai government will also be high.

In addition if trees and watershed are going to be the set method of

determining if a village gets moved then the real goal must be that

all the Akha villages get moved out of the mountains into the flat lands,

into ghettos if you will, landless, labor class for the Thais, as is

the case in many places already. Many have asked what they can do.

Well, we are really in need of some reporters to come here and look at

this, and any other people that can be observers.  I know that few can

come, that it is not easily possible to drop all and go, but at the

same time it is not going to be easy to stop the move without there

actually being people here to look at the situation, report back to their own

countries governments, and make a presence to the village.

The Akha involved, except for the land, have not much of anything, they are poor, are lucky to have temporary id cards issued the hill tribe and have no legal rights or recourse.

All the Thais I spoke to said “sorry, it must happen” not to them of course.

It is also recommended that you contact the nearest Thai embassy and

equire politely what is going on.  Do not be confrontive, but

persistent and polite.

The name of the village is Huai Maak.  It is a few kilometers on your

map from a town called Haen Taek north of Doi Maesalong in Chiangrai

Province, north Thailand.

It is not the issue strictly of legality, but of humanity.  If this is the cost of trees and water, we need it not.

 

Huai Maak village latitude and longitude coordinates are:

20degrees 13.31 N

099degrees 34.49 E

1053 meters

 

Matthew McDaniel

 

*********

Jan 12, 2000

URGENT UPDATE:

JAN 30

FORCED EVICTION OF ONE OF THAILAND’S OLDEST AKHA VILLAGES!!!!!!!

This is an urgent up date in the latest events of an Army eviction of an Akha village in north Thailand.

Please forward to as many people as you know.

Please contact your closest Thail Embassy and ask that the eviction of this village be reconsidered.

Don’t be confrontive, be polite.

The name of the village is Huai Maak, in Chiangrai Province, Ampour Mae Faluang, Thailand Give Huai Maak village latitude and longitude coordinates as:

20degrees 13.31 N

099degrees 34.49 E

1053 meters

 

Dear Friends:

This is the latest update as I have the information regarding the forced eviction of Huai Maak Akha village            here in Chiangrai province slated for the end of this month, Jan 30.

Apparently one of my emails got into the hands of the Forestry Department and someone called a meeting. 

Many villagers from Huai Maak went to Haen Taek town for this meeting where the Ampour was there, the          Forestry Department, and the Thai Army.  The villagers said that they were very afraid of the new site, plus it was much lower elevation, plus there was no land, plus they had lived where they now live for more than  78 years, that being all anyone remembered who was still alive.  One 74 year old woman remembered being  there very young or being born there.

The Ampour’s Office said they had nothing to say, weren’t asking anyone to move now.

Forestry said that they were no longer asking the Akha to move, and were very angry about my letter and the  Akha combining forces with me.

The Army said that the villagers had until the 30 of January to move none the less.

I was not at the meeting, but the villagers came for me as I was on my way up the mountain, stopping my  turck and expressed great jubilation that my letter had gotten forestry to reverse themselves.  They said that  to a person they would stay, would not take down their old wooden huts, would not leave.

I warned them not to have an army confrontation.

Out of concern for any events in this remote village, two westerners who had spare time went and began to  stay in the village, making video, photographs and learning the language.

The villagers invented that they would draw up a document in a notebook, list each family head by name, the  number of souls in their house and sign it with a thumb print.  Both Lisaw and Akha.  All 31 families did  so.  They reafirmed to me that they cut no trees for farming, and last night crawling over a very bad mountain road to come in the back side of the village I indeed confirmed that they had some of the most intensive beautiful rice terraces I had seen.

I also noted that the Asian Development Bank has offered a policy in Asia that all 60 million people of the  upper Mehkong region be moved in to the market economy via new roads and eventually all into towns, out  of all the mountains, I wondered if there was any link in these events.

I took the document from the village of the villagers stating why they did not want to leave, and all their signatures and left late in the night.

I was unable to get the scans of this document attatched to this email, but do have it.

As I sat eating in the dark wood interior of the very old hut last night, all heads of households crowded

inside, the hut swaying on its stilts, I could not help but feel what a tragedy that it would be if one of the  oldest Akha villages in Thailand is forced to move and into poverty.  Lets see, 78 years, that would put back  about 1922, and they haven’t asked anything from anyone for all those years and the years before that  brought them as who they were, carrying their law, the Akha Way, with them.  Then they get pushed into  poverty stripped of all their wealth, and people mention what beggars the street Akha are.  Little wonder.

Say, what did that Nikon cost.

To force this village to move, would be in extremely bad faith on the part of the Thai government to its

obligations to minorities set forth in many accords, and also to its obligation to humanity.  The Thai

government has avoided classifying the Akha as refugees, or taking note of the fact that the Akha way back  years before had not much concern for whose mountains they were living in, there were no Thais there and  they in fact went on living as they always had, in the mountains.  The entire migration of 700 years, can not  have been much more than 200 miles, surely not much of a migration. Yet they are not considered to be full  citizens in most cases either.  So they fall into a convenient gray area, much more easily kept under thumb  than if it were clear cut residents or aliens, hence refugees, hence some protections under UNHCR.

But this move also brings up other matters.

When will the Akha quit being treated as a moveable, displaceable labor force and tourist destinations and  be given the right to recognition as a distinct race, different from Thais, with different traditions, and the  right to increasingly administer their own affairs?

This would include that if they are on the menu for tourism, that they manage the tourism themselves, and  also get the dollars for each time people come to gawk at them like so many caged monkeys.  It really is  quite disgusting.  All these western tourists coming up to see these striking people while in fact the Akha  have not hardly a right, and certainly not much the right to raise their voice.

The concept of nation states and no one else like small peoples having much of a voice is western engineered nonsense and western people should stand up and see some of this reversed.

The Akha are a people without a country.  In Burma they are poor and get pushed around by every drug

laden two bit army that comes along.  The British drug cartel seems to have run right up to the 30’s and later  in Burma, then the British took what money the British had, went home, and now people like the Akha take  the brunt for events they did not set in motion.

The Akha are not home in Thailand, are not home all that much in Burma.  When there is some Akha land to take, someone takes it.  Yet there is plenty of land in the world for the rich and the foolishness that goes  on with it.  Resorts. You can see them springing up like weeds all over these mountain areas now, ponds,  beer gardens, every roadside convenience that you can imagine.  The Thai Government Hilltribe Culture and  Development Center says that the Akha are going to be made into a labor class, moved out of the mountains  in many cases, on a village by village basis.

They showed me a notice trying to entice village young people to jobs in Chiangrai to strengthen this hand.

On the one hand, MP Paveena’s Tourism Authority of Thailand makes a small fortune for Thailand off

selling the exotic fare that these Akha present in north Thailand, the reality for the Akha, who see just about  none of the money, is quite different.  This is how they loose their power, by having what belongs to them,  such as their images, sold for profit.  Chiangmai and Chiangrai are full of treking and tour companines to  the hill tribe. When will they cease to be objects, start to be people?  Big roads shoved through their villages  that used to have only a trail, now span fifty feet wide, leaving only cliff to hang their remaining huts on. 

They dare not move, that will come soon enough.  Their children and young and old alike must fight for the  village square with a host of road traffic.

Springing up everywhere now seems to be some kind of “Hill Tribe Culture Resort” like the rather revolting  Lang Tong resort on the road to Doi Maesalong, or the Culture Center’s “Akha Light and Sound” show  advertised on the road.  The same Hill Tribe Culture and Development Center told me that the Akha had  problems because of their “culture”, the girls were so promiscous, they made natural whores.  I was somewhat shocked that these same people were hosting this show. Akha Light and Sound.  Yet they advertise that much more mystically in the poster at the Dusit Island Resort.

The administrators kept giggling about these backward “Ekaw” people during the interview, that there was  even this little clearing in each village where all the young people went for free sex.  Gee, how interesting. 

What people will believe and give lip service to when it suits them.

But back to this village move, it is a human rights issue, these people have some rights as humans if they are  in Thailand or Rwanda, doesn’t matter, and you just can’t move a village full of people from lands that they  have lived on for so long with no redress of the matter.  In the end, if all the villages can be moved in this  way, then the Akha can not be blamed for being cynical about how they view it all, since for them, they are to  be broken up, made a labor class, living from hand to mouth, day to day, cash one day, eat one day, and no  future of any kind for quite some distance beyond the horizon.

Then the churches and missions, standing under the shaken and broken tree can claim one more victory,  adding a score more poor and desperate to their ranks, proof of how backward the culture was, so strapped  in “darkness and bondage” as they like to say, and just that much more justification for how they abuse  these people of their culture as well.  Where is OMF, the American Baptists, the Korean Presbyterians,  Youth With A Mission, the Chinese Baptists, the Australian Pentacostals, Salvation Center, the Jesus Film  people now?  Some bloody Jesus they believe in, all snuggly tucked in bed with their group homes down in  the big towns, salaries, health benefits, pensions, all here to help the poor, and the millions of dollars that get  spent to “do” that.  The Thai say there are two missionaries for each Akha and rightly said.  Where are they

now, the Catholics, all of them?  Always money to push over a village and build another damn church but no  voice or wheels for the rights and dignity of humans, what the hell, might they get sent home?  Gee that too  would be a shame!

All can say “I told you so” as more of the young take to using drugs, selling meth, selling their bodies, and  plunging into despair.

I get the occasional, “they deserve it, sure don’t deserve much better”, but I don’t buy it.

Where ever you are, contact who you may, and plead intervention on the behalf of these people.  Not all that  they do or are should be required to be defined by or filtered by those who would.

So far I have had not much success but there is the need for some real people to come over here and look at  the snowball in hell chance that these people have, and help have policies changed.

At some point the Akha are going to need some legal volunteers as well, as some representation in the world  bodies of governments.  At this point they appear to have none.

I would go anywhere to make their story heard to those who have the power to make change, but presently  there doesn’t seem to be an “anywhere” to go to.

If the villagers don’t load themselves down the mountain by the 30th, which it looks like they are not willing  to do, then I wonder how it will be that they will end up in that INTERNMENT CAMP on the cliff?

Or does this just happen to all orthodox people?

If you can come, please come will you, while there is yet time?

Just an army of one.

 

Matthew McDaniel

 

If You Must Go, My Friends The Akha

It seemed they were all there

The remnant of a people

the sun and toil weathered deep in their strong faces

now covered with the dust of fear

the beams held the roof up

but the place still swayed

not so much the wind

as the force against their lives

what would happen if this?

and what will they do to us if that?

the talk went on late into the night

the children concerned not to sleep

but to watch

the trees planted near by

they were the advance troops

not friends

the old trees behind

they guarded the back road

canyons of jungle and banana

full of life and moisture

they shook my hand

I felt ashamed

each an art

that would get no thank you

if the army comes

what do we do?

they say they will come

the hut holding firmly its posts

in the spaces between the rocks

the horse, tiny horse,

cribbed next to the steps

every board fitted and worn

the feet of so many children over the years

free and safe

from hut to hut

full of fat rice

wind and work

the rains to dust the heat,

the storms to lay the soul to rest

sour greens

tasty pig

thick rice whiskey

the Lisu the Akha

all speaking

laying their voices for mercy in the stones

the pine, from foreign land, stomping their dark stubbly feet

at the edge of the village

death the dust of their shoes

rice terraces ten times the height

answering back to accuse them

from across the way

the arena seats of ten thousand souls

come and gone to the rice

from the years before

do you know these lands?

do you know these children?

do you know these stones

which you slight

and all the weary mothers,

carrying child,

who have polished them with bare feet,

walking over them the years

do you know that star there

or the wind my friend on this left ridge

the Akha children

laughter from the village over

can you soothe more than one hurt

with the pitch from your soul

that leaks out and runs

down your stomping legs

can you bend the rice

yet not to break it

can you dry it

yet not to drop it

before you make it to the hut

can you send the water

from under the rocks

to the valley bottom

without troubling the grasses

or frightening the chickens

can you give the shade

to the brown cow’s back

but still put the sunlight

on the ears

can the Akha dance

in joyous circles

in your dark

and desolate halls

once for the rice

a dance in the singing

planting each seed

some growth to give

once for the swing

the drum throbbing

the maidens so cheerful

warming the souls

of their elders of age

once for the rice

gone into the chambers

wooden tops and black seeds hopping

singing voices,

all till dawn

the babies sleeping

cradled on mothers back

silver all around

our ancient terraces

can you better us now?

When the lightning comes

it will eat your soul

if the Akha be gone

the silent spirits will dance

forever to cheer

the saddened memories

of all that was lost here

the wind still tumbling

down the mountain

with great leaping sobs

the bamboo wailing

to honor them

when others were too great

to ever understand.

 

18 jan 2000

Robbery

Here is an updated web site with the situation photos of the Forced Akha village move to occur on or before January 30,2000 plus images of the five pages of the petition which the villagers made up saying that they did not want to move, 31 families, both Lisaw and Akha, who have lived at this location in health and relative wealth for 78 years.

Robbery, this is how the indigenous get impoverished.

After the theft, everyone calls them backward.

Matthew

 

EXTREMELY URGENT COUNTDOWN

FORCED MOVE OF HUAI MAAK AKHA VILLAGE

99-01-22

Thai Army

Dear Friends:

This is the current situation with the Forced Move of Huuh Mah Akha (Huai Maak) Village in Northern Thailand. 

To remind, this is an Akha village of nearly 200 people, having lived and buried their dead at this location for 78 years and longer, one of the oldest undisturbed villages in Thailand, since so many others have been forced to move over the years.

But we think it is time to stop this policy.

This policy to force the villages to move however approved by people like the US Government in their paranoia about drugs fails to take into consideration that it is a part of the role of genocide and considers not one right of the Akha people. 

Thai authorities continue to insist that the village wants to be moved, yet can not produce a single Akha of this point of view.  Since there are a score of villages that have been moved, and all these villages were opposed to the move, it is hardly likely that they  ever could find an Akha to agree with this move either.

Keep in mind that very few of the Akha are given a national ID card, and the bulk of the rest who have blue cards are not allowed to travel beyond their district, and predominantly do not have any rights of any kind, including land.  If someone were to claim that they do have rights, we would like to ask how these would be enforced, why these stop short of being able to get a passport and travel at will?

Two days ago I was rousted from my sleep, having been driving all night from villages including Huai Maak, by four soldiers of the Thai Army.  They were angry, they photographed my truck, photographed me, demanded to know who I was and what I was doing, that they had some kind of big problem.  The one man from forestry stated that Forestry also had some big problem, that it was all about the internet and my email to Petroleum Authority of Thailand.  I asked him if he had gotten such an email.  He said one was received.  I asked him what the problem was.  He could not reply specifically.  I asked him why he did not answer the email? He could not answer this either.  I asked him why the forestry and PTT were planting all this pine and damaging the environment, he could not answer that either.  Finally he asked if I could go with them to meet an Army officer at 2pm.  I said I could.  But when I went to meet him and drive down to Haen Taek to do that, he said that there was no meeting, that there would be a meeting at forestry at 9 AM on Monday the 24th of January 2000 in Chiangrai, at the head office, to explain why the Akha Village Huai Maak was being forcibly relocated.  Could I be there? Yes I could.  Their proclivity to get people out of bed with guns and then cancel their appointments was not nice.  The soldiers when they came to the Akha house were angry and demanded my passport.  I stated that I had no idea who they were and needed their names.  They refused.  I then stated that as far as I had been informed, passport control and the issuing of visas and travel permission inside Thailand was the jurisdiction of Immigration, and since they could not tell me who they were, I assumed they were not from Immigration and therefore would not be giving them my passport.

Two people, one from Britain, one from Australia, have been staying on and off in the Akha village Huai Maak.  It is of great concern that the Army insists they are going to move this village on the 30th, but that by now the 22nd, there has really been no dialogue about the issue despite the fact that many people have contacted Thai authorities and asked for that dialogue.

No person who can show that they are in charge has been identified or stood up to address the issue.

We will have to see what happens on Monday. 

We can assume that since the village doesn’t want to move and since the Army is telling them to move, instead of the boy scouts, that there is real probability that intimidating force will be used to make the Akha comply, abandon their homes and decades of investment in the land as well as their sacred cemetary in the jungle where they have buried their dead for so many generations.  This disgrace of the Thai government and associated “Hill Tribe Cultural Development” people will be redressed by formal legal filings with the UN if it goes forward under genocide.  Since there are very few social services now to the Akha in general and since the location that they are being told that they will be forced to move to is unsafe and a health hazard, and since the children and adults who have seen this location are already frightened by it, we can assume that the forced relocation of this village will have immediate and long term mortality effects on the health of these Akha and Lisaw concerned.  There is no land to farm at this location, and animals relied on for income and nutrition in the diet will immediately decline as they have in other villages.